It is hard to describe Soweto to a foreigner. Upon entering you can feel its history, through the people and rich culture that encapsulates the experience. No Sowetan can tell you its population with absolute certainty (I have heard estimates between 1 and 5 million). It is a vast populous that stretches beyond reach. What holds Soweto together in richness is a prevailing spirit of community that can be seen both in the religious experience and also in everyday living.
No words can fully articulate my Sowetan experience. I spent the weekend with two study abroad friends (Pat and Will) and my home stay Mum (Florence Mondi) in the township of Pimville. From the moment I entered her house (Flossie’s Bed and Breakfast) I felt welcomed and at ease. That first night we all learnt from our different histories, cooked and laughed together.
On Saturday morning we had a South African funeral experience, for a man who was killed in his 30s- a garbage collector known to the community. Firstly, we drove off to his house. The streets were jam packed with cars- a maneuverability course on steroids. We waited briefly before driving to the funeral. People poured out of buses in what was easily the largest cemetery I had ever seen. It was an endless expanse of gravestones. My initial confusion was eliminated after realizing there was another funeral in its proceedings directly to the left of us and one behind us. There were hundreds of people waiting in solitude. A small tent was set up a bit back from the burial site for the direct family. As soon as the burying was to begin the family rushed forward briefly, tears were drawn and they went back to their seats. During the service songs were initiated from different people in the crowd and everyone joined in tantalizing harmony. Tears streamed down my face as I witnessed the human spirit among these people. It was the most moving period of my experience in South Africa. After the end of the service, people traveled back to the streets to the area of the house where a large lunch was provided. The celebration of life was to begin and would continue with partying through the day and into the night.
During the afternoon we went out to Park station (the largest transportation spot in Jo-burg with trains and buses) where Florence had a meeting. We passed through a huge market in a predominantly immigrant area mixed with Zimbabweans and people from different parts of Africa. The issue of immigration in South Africa, like in many other countries such as the United States and Australia is a touchy subject. There has been a substantial influx of immigrants in search of a better life from other countries of Africa since the fall of apartheid. Often immigrants have come from political unrest and poverty to a transforming South Africa. Unfortunately there have been attacks on immigrants (particularly Zimbabweans) claimed as xenophobic activities. After further insight and investigation it seems that the attacks have been more led by economic reasons.
With the unemployment rate in South Africa estimated at 30-40%, the issue of jobs is critical to the South African climate. Education is most often held up as the key to economic empowerment and future sustainability. Florence as well as various other Sowetans that we met spoke about the importance of education in reshaping the new South Africa.
For dinner we went out to a restaurant called “Robbie’s Place” for some pretty authentic South African cuisine. It was really loud which made conversation a continual struggle. The food was delicious with beef, rice, beans and a couple other side dishes common to Soweto. We watched a South African soccer game and talked to a native sports fanatic about soccer.
The next day we went on our second religious experience of the home stay, a service at Grace Bible Church. We went to the second service at 9 am and the church was still packed from the previous one. Around 8,000 people crowded the church and overflow hall. The place was booming and vibrantly alive in an experiential atmosphere of jubilee. The vocals seemed to transcend the laws of sound, but came together in beautiful harmony. Unfortunately, it felt like a mega church which was ironically mentioned during the sermon. The pastor talked evangelistically about the future church and the importance of the mega church. It was of a Pentecostal style, although technically non-denominational. The service was composed of a variety of languages including Zulu, Hutu and English. It was impressive to see this many people worshipping together as one body.
In the latter morning we were taken around by our home stay Mum’s friend, Pauline. She brought us into a number of houses in the neighboring community. It was terrific to finally meet people that we could converse with that weren’t intending to present an epidemiological understanding of South Africa. I could talk genuinely with others about life matters relative to the particular. There was something so real and awakening about this. Later on Pauline talked about the difficulties of being a woman in this culture and we eagerly helped her prepare food. On the streets we talked to youth about cultural contrasts and music (particularly house music which is really popular in South Africa).
For lunch our home stay family gathered with other study abroad students and their families to be in community. We ate a seemingly everlasting meal that was flavorful and utterly delightful. Various marinated and spicy dishes, rich pasta cooked ‘al dente’ and rice mixed with an assortment of interesting flavors where just a few of the dishes served. We laughed, danced and conversed. Soon after we rushed off to help Florence clean her daughter’s house who was on her way back from Nigeria. The house felt clean upon entering but we still scrubbed the floors and made it feel brand new. We headed back to the home stay and had a nice chat to Florence. The next morning we said goodbye and left on our way in two buses filled with students to Pretoria.
Thank you Soweto for an experience of a lifetime!
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