My Time in Windhoek

Sunrise over Windhoek

I have now been in Windhoek for almost a month. Highlights include my internship at the Peace Centre, urban homestay and various cultural experiences. I will touch more light on these three subjects in future blogs. My time with the other 22 students - from different parts of the U.S. - has been enriching. These students (20 girls, 2 boys) come from extremely diverse backgrounds and bring valuable perspectives and experience to the table. I take classes in history, development and religion with them.

   

Parliament Gardens, Windhoek 

In history, we are studying race, the first genocide in the 20^th century (the Herero Genocide) and the legacy of apartheid. We have heard from a descendant of the genocide and visited a national tribal museum in Windhoek. In development, we have assessed development theories, looked at the various perceptions of development and had someone talk to us about the Basic Income Grant (BIG) campaign. In religion, we have heard from each other’s different spiritual backgrounds and compared traditional African religion to Christianity. I helped facilitate the last class on the subject, Namibia and the church. We were fortunate to gain two valuable perspectives about the role of the church in Namibian society by visiting both German and Inner-city Lutheran churches. Materials and ideas from these 3 classes have coincided well with things I have learnt at my internship, urban homestay and at other cultural events. Some of the activities that I have done over the last few weeks in Windhoek include:

Katutura

     - A tour of Katutura (traditionally the black township by Windhoek)

     - A women’s soccer game (Namibia vs Botswana, ending up with 0-0 in pouring rain)

     - An informal dialogue session with Namibian university students

      - A meal at XWAMA restaurant (traditional Namibian cuisine), dishes include whole chicken including the claws and all bodily organs, dried oryx and dried fish- I had the chicken

      - A meal at Joe’s Beer House (I tried zebra, kudu and oryx)

      -  Inner-city Lutheran Church service (including a baptism of a young boy
-    Going out in town with a couple of Namibian friends

I feel like I am getting a real experience of the Namibian way of life. It has been a truly enriching time. I have just got back from the coast, where I spent a few days in Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. A blog on these experiences will come in due time. PEACE FROM NAMIBIA!

Transforming Perspectives in Pretoria

The time in Pretoria was short, but rewarding. It was highlighted by a study of the political and governmental facets of South African society. Pretoria is about an hour drive north of Jo-burg, a city historically vital to the segregationist’s struggles. It is often called the apartheid capital of South Africa. From hearing different perspectives of people living in Pretoria, it is easy to see the pervasive influence of race and the manifestation of the apartheid legacy in everyday life. On a brighter note, Pretoria contains a history rich in culture and beauty shown through political buildings and parks. I will briefly describe some of the different experiences our group managed to have:

Tour of Voortrekker Monument- The Voortrekkers were a group of immigrants from the Cape Colony who made a “Great Trek” into the interior of Southern Africa. The monument commemorates the history of the people and has become a national icon for Afrikaners in South Africa. Our guide showed us the history of a people in conflict, particularly with the English and Zulus (further info: http://www.southafrica-travel.net/north/a1pret04.htm).

Freedom Park- A place set up in honor and dignity for all peoples of South Africa. It is a spot to reflect on the past, the system of apartheid and major conflicts that have devastated the South African climate. All plants and trees are native to South Africa and symbolism bounds throughout. It includes a burial site surrounded by 11 boulders representing each of the 11 official languages in South Africa and an eternal flame highlighting the spirit of the nation (further info: http://www.sa-venues.com/attractionsga/freedom-park.htm).

US Embassy- We were given a presentation of U.S. policy in South Africa which included issues such as HIV/AIDS, poverty and gender equality (further info: http://southafrica.usembassy.gov/).

Parliament Gardens- Outside the parliament building of Pretoria is a beautiful multi-leveled grassy area containing an array of red flowers. Here our group spent time reflecting on our time in South Africa.

Overall, I really enjoyed my time in Pretoria. We stayed in massive rooms in a nice hotel, containing beautiful plants and an outdoor pool. Our unit- who I shared with only two others- contained a bathroom and a small kitchen area in a total of three separate rooms. The whole place smelled of privilege and came into extreme contrast to what we had seen in Kliptown, Soweto. Our group enjoyed solid bonding time for our two nights together. On our last night we went out to a glorious buffet, with a large array of meats from Africa, traditional cuisine and South African wines. It was a time purposely filled with luxuries to highlight the vast inequalities between abject poverty and immense wealth. We had seen contrasts when comparing housing of the new black rich class to most of Soweto. We had seen contrasts during our drive from Sandton (the wealthiest region of Africa) to Alexandra (one of the poorest areas of South Africa). These contrasts were highlighted once again from living in our hotel and visiting the surrounding areas.

The reason for the high levels of violence, even 20 years after the end of apartheid is not simply poverty. It is most characterized by the extreme disparity between the few rich and the large poor population. In a world where globalization is the key word, the poor have increased awareness of the rich. They see it on the television and they read it in the paper. It is pervasive. The inequality lights are flashing. They can’t escape from seeing the lives of the rich. As the rich continue to get richer and the poor poorer, the problems faced in Southern Africa and the world become more economic.

When I look back on my time in Pretoria I can’t help but feel a rich desire to change the wrongs and to put on the gloves of justice. It brought with me new insight into the greatest discrepancy between human beings I have witnessed in my life. South Africa was a time to ponder these things. It was a time to think deeper about history, culture and social development. It was a time to question and revise. It was a time to reflect, but look towards the future. I was on my way to Namibia and prepared to see new things. I was excited about the possibilities of experiencing Namibian culture and to be with a new community of people. Here I can be with people and witness a part of their lives. I can live, breath a new way of thinking. I can see, hear and feel a new perspective. NAMIBS HERE I COME!

In the Heart of Soweto

It is hard to describe Soweto to a foreigner. Upon entering you can feel its history, through the people and rich culture that encapsulates the experience. No Sowetan can tell you its population with absolute certainty (I have heard estimates between 1 and 5 million). It is a vast populous that stretches beyond reach. What holds Soweto together in richness is a prevailing spirit of community that can be seen both in the religious experience and also in everyday living. 

No words can fully articulate my Sowetan experience. I spent the weekend with two study abroad friends (Pat and Will) and my home stay Mum (Florence Mondi) in the township of Pimville. From the moment I entered her house (Flossie’s Bed and Breakfast) I felt welcomed and at ease. That first night we all learnt from our different histories, cooked and laughed together.

On Saturday morning we had a South African funeral experience, for a man who was killed in his 30s- a garbage collector known to the community. Firstly, we drove off to his house. The streets were jam packed with cars- a maneuverability course on steroids. We waited briefly before driving to the funeral. People poured out of buses in what was easily the largest cemetery I had ever seen. It was an endless expanse of gravestones. My initial confusion was eliminated after realizing there was another funeral in its proceedings directly to the left of us and one behind us. There were hundreds of people waiting in solitude. A small tent was set up a bit back from the burial site for the direct family. As soon as the burying was to begin the family rushed forward briefly, tears were drawn and they went back to their seats. During the service songs were initiated from different people in the crowd and everyone joined in tantalizing harmony. Tears streamed down my face as I witnessed the human spirit among these people. It was the most moving period of my experience in South Africa. After the end of the service, people traveled back to the streets to the area of the house where a large lunch was provided. The celebration of life was to begin and would continue with partying through the day and into the night.

During the afternoon we went out to Park station (the largest transportation spot in Jo-burg with trains and buses) where Florence had a meeting. We passed through a huge market in a predominantly immigrant area mixed with Zimbabweans and people from different parts of Africa. The issue of immigration in South Africa, like in many other countries such as the United States and Australia is a touchy subject. There has been a substantial influx of immigrants in search of a better life from other countries of Africa since the fall of apartheid. Often immigrants have come from political unrest and poverty to a transforming South Africa. Unfortunately there have been attacks on immigrants (particularly Zimbabweans) claimed as xenophobic activities. After further insight and investigation it seems that the attacks have been more led by economic reasons.

With the unemployment rate in South Africa estimated at 30-40%, the issue of jobs is critical to the South African climate. Education is most often held up as the key to economic empowerment and future sustainability. Florence as well as various other Sowetans that we met spoke about the importance of education in reshaping the new South Africa.

For dinner we went out to a restaurant called “Robbie’s Place” for some pretty authentic South African cuisine. It was really loud which made conversation a continual struggle. The food was delicious with beef, rice, beans and a couple other side dishes common to Soweto. We watched a South African soccer game and talked to a native sports fanatic about soccer.

The next day we went on our second religious experience of the home stay, a service at Grace Bible Church. We went to the second service at 9 am and the church was still packed from the previous one. Around 8,000 people crowded the church and overflow hall. The place was booming and vibrantly alive in an experiential atmosphere of jubilee. The vocals seemed to transcend the laws of sound, but came together in beautiful harmony. Unfortunately, it felt like a mega church which was ironically mentioned during the sermon. The pastor talked evangelistically about the future church and the importance of the mega church. It was of a Pentecostal style, although technically non-denominational. The service was composed of a variety of languages including Zulu, Hutu and English. It was impressive to see this many people worshipping together as one body.

In the latter morning we were taken around by our home stay Mum’s friend, Pauline. She brought us into a number of houses in the neighboring community. It was terrific to finally meet people that we could converse with that weren’t intending to present an epidemiological understanding of South Africa. I could talk genuinely with others about life matters relative to the particular. There was something so real and awakening about this. Later on Pauline talked about the difficulties of being a woman in this culture and we eagerly helped her prepare food. On the streets we talked to youth about cultural contrasts and music (particularly house music which is really popular in South Africa).

For lunch our home stay family gathered with other study abroad students and their families to be in community. We ate a seemingly everlasting meal that was flavorful and utterly delightful. Various marinated and spicy dishes, rich pasta cooked ‘al dente’ and rice mixed with an assortment of interesting flavors where just a few of the dishes served. We laughed, danced and conversed. Soon after we rushed off to help Florence clean her daughter’s house who was on her way back from Nigeria. The house felt clean upon entering but we still scrubbed the floors and made it feel brand new. We headed back to the home stay and had a nice chat to Florence. The next morning we said goodbye and left on our way in two buses filled with students to Pretoria.

Thank you Soweto for an experience of a lifetime!

An African Journey Begins…

In regards to wealth disparity, South Africa is claimed to be one of the most unequal societies in the world. My South African experience has been defined by contrasts. I have seen it in the extreme discrepancies in housing, sanitation and education. I have also seen it in more subtle forms that intricately affect daily life. I will provide a brief description of the system which has helped create and maintain these contrasts, before talking about my specific experiences.

Apartheid is an Afrikaners word that means “separateness” and was implemented in South Africa from 1948-1994. The ugly cousin of segregation, apartheid intended to keep both black, colored and white separate from each other. It ended up taking away many freedoms from blacks through inhumane laws, conditions and an institutional system of white privilege (further info: http://www.africanaencyclopedia. com/apartheid/ apartheid.html). While apartheid is no longer in existence its legacy remains very much engrained in South African society. The deep wounds inflicted during this part of history will take years of mending and reconciliation.

During my time in the Jo-burg region I was fortunate enough to visit Soweto (SOuth WEstern TOwnships), the most important area in the liberation struggle in South Africa. Soweto was originally created in 1904 and is the largest metropolitan area in the country (further info: http://www.joburg. org.za/soweto). I will talk briefly about some of the different sites we have visited during our time in Soweto that are specifically connected to the liberation struggle:

Regina Mundi Church- A catholic church located in the center of Soweto and at the heart of the liberation struggle. A place of refuge for the oppressed, although it contains several bullet holes around the alter from police during the 1976 uprisings (further info: http://www.soweto.co.za/html/ ven_regina_mundi.htm)

Morris Isaacson School- Start of the 1976 student march against education taught in Afrikaans. We drove along the route that the students took.

Hector Pieterson Museum- We heard the inspiring story behind the iconic photograph of Hector Pieterson told by his sister, Antoinette Sithole. Hector was killed during the uprisings. The museum illustrated the history of the 1976 student uprisings and its ramifications (further info: http://www. southafrica.info/about/history/ hector-pieterson.htm).

Apartheid Museum- Covers the racial history of South Africa with a particular focus on the liberation struggle and life under the apartheid system. Before entering, the ticket you receive determines the race that you will be for a short portion of the journey (this is fitting as people don’t choose the color of their skin- it is given to them). One door is for blacks and the other whites illustrating the type of signs and profiles that people of a particular race would be accustomed to seeing during the apartheid era (further info: http://www. apartheidmuseum.org).

Nelson Mandela’s house- Contained a lot of history of the Mandela family. Each member of the family has had their umbilical cords buried under a tree which is symbolic of humanity coming from and making up the earth. The house was an important meeting place during the liberation struggle. Mandela visited it soon after he was released from jail in 1990 (further info: http://www.mandelahouse.com/ history.asp).


Freedom Charter- Ten idealistic rights set about by the South African Congress Alliance in 1955. The main purpose was to give freedom to the people and rights included “The people should govern” and “All shall be equal before the law.” A large round table stated each of the ten rights with a further explanation (further info: http://www.anc.org.za/show.php?include=docs/misc/1955/charter.html).  

One of the most defining elements of our time in Jo-burg has been listening to a variety of perspectives provided from a range of speakers:

Anti-privatization Forum Activists- A group trying to push for more governmental housing, so that better housing standards are established in South Africa (particularly in Soweto).

Mr. Mataboge (Liberation Struggle in South Africa)- Provided an historical framework for the liberation movement and what it means to South Africans today.  

Dale McKinley (South Africa’s Political Economy)- An informative journey into the political and economic struggles that are currently facing South Africa.

Dr David Fig (Nuclear Energy and Environment in South Africa)- An attack against nuclear energy for being bad on the environment and not economically viable. An assessment of various sustainable energy options was provided.

Nokhwezi Hoboyi (Treatment Action Campaign)- Provided insight into the difficulties of HIV/AIDS, with a focus on stigmatization and prevention (further info: http://www.tac.org.za/community/about).

South African Council of Churches (SACC)- A religious understanding of South Africa, the issues that face the church today and an assessment of various ecological problems needing a fix (further info: http://www. sacc.org.za/about.html).

Khulumani Support Group- A discussion of truth, memory and storytelling as part of reconciliation efforts in South Africa. Highlighted current environmental problems almost unknown to the western world (further info: http://www.khulumani.net/).

ANC representative- Provided some insight into South African politics, but lacked substance or direction (further info: http://www.anc.org.za/).  

Democratic Alliance (DA)- A comprehensive analysis of political history and culture in South Africa with an emphasis on the work of the DA (further info: http://www.da.org.za/).

Other valuable experiences from the Jo-burg area include:

Semi-Private School in Soweto- We were taken around an entirely black school by groups of students into various classrooms from 8-12^th grade. We stood in front of classes making introductions and in smaller groups answering student questions. Students were insightful, inquisitive and had an incredible passion for learning and life. I got to see a geography class and learnt about weather differences between different latitudes.  

Kliptown (township of Soweto)- The poorest of poor live here in shantytown style housing. Often corrugated tin roofing and a “shit in a bucket” system in which the bucket is taken to be cleaned after each week (further info: http://www.southafrica.info/about/history/kliptown-220605.htm).

Songs of Migration at Market Theatre- Over 40 different songs conveyed through a variety of different languages and musical styles. A theatrical performance detailing the migration of blacks to areas of mining in the Jo-burg region. Extremely powerful with a band of two guitarists, pianist, singer, drummer and trumpeter taking center stage (further info: http://markettheatre.co.za/shows/ watch/songs-of-migration).

Mall shopping (Maponya, Southgate, Bruma & Sandton)- We managed to see a variety of malls during our time in the Jo-burg area. It highlighted the injustice between predominantly white and black areas and the wealth of the new black middle class. For example, Maponya mall in Soweto is marketed towards Sowetans (but only around 10% of the population can afford to shop here). Sandton (a predominately white area) mall is claimed as the richest mall in all of Africa and sometimes in all of the Southern Hemisphere. 

Constitution Hill- Commemorated South Africa’s constitution (claimed as one of the most liberal constitutions in the world and includes rights for homosexual people), a fort that housed prisoners during the apartheid era up to 1983 (including Nelson Mandela for a short time) and the more recently established constitutional court. The theme of the court is “justice under a tree” as this was historically how justice was done in the African tradition (further info: http://www.constitutionhill.org.za/).

Just a few highlights from my journey in the Jo-burg area!