Botswana and the Okavango Delta

Thebe River Lodge, Chobe

Our time in Botswana was composed of staying one night in Chobe and then 2 nights in Maun on the Okavango Delta. Chobe is situated in Eastern Botswana over an hours drive from Zimbabwe. We had initially planned to stay here so that we could see the animals in style (there are more elephants in Chobe National Park then in any other part of the world). But after our fabulous experience in Etosha National Park, in northern Namibia it didn’t seem as necessary anymore. Any opportunity to save money on such a trip should be taken!

On the way to Chobe our kombi encountered a exciting, but frightful experience. We were forced to stop due to an elephant that was in the middle of the road. The elephant ruffled its ears and appeared ready to charge and continued to walk closer to us. After some fear, putting the music off and winding up the windows we waited patiently. We couldn’t move backwards as cars were right behind us. Fortunately a car drove in front of us and the elephant walked off the road. It was a close call (there were a couple in our group who had a closer one in Zimbabwe, they were on foot and had to run away from an elephant chasing after them).

Shower area- Old Bridge Backpackers, Maun

We stayed at the Thebe River Lodge, which was a nice but somewhat isolated campsite. Everyone camped and we spent some valuable time as a group, especially learning and singing some Christian camp fire songs from Tara (our Namibian group leader who was a fabulous singer, guitarist, but also cook and was valuable to the group’s spirit). After the tents were up and food on its way, some of us decided to check out the area. The campsite was surrounded by an electric fence to protect the campers from crocodiles coming off the river banks.

The Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun was really impressive. Our campsite was right on the river and the bar area was charming with hammocks and a small pool. The public showers were spacious; each one with a large separate section, with a rope to pull across to show that it is in use. During our free day in Maun we spent almost two hours looking for the Wildlife Reserve only to find out that it was closed due to high water levels. It was rather disappointing, but we managed to fill the time with other things. I went to a museum for a bit and then got some quality street tucker. For U.S. $ I was given traditional Botswanan food of beef, rice and chakalaka (a spicy vegetable dish often served with bread, pap or a curry). This was such a great tasting meal!

Okavango Delta boat cruise

Later on I met a guy called Mulimuntz and he offered for a friend to take us out on the river. I didn’t uptake it but instead headed back to the Backpackers for the India vs. Australia cricket game (a close game, but unfortunately the Aussies couldn’t pull through). Later on some new friends took a few of us from our group in a boat along the river. It was peaceful and surreal, but a close hippo kept us awake (after spotting it we soon moved onto another piece of water).

Open-billed stork

The next and final full day in Botswana was spent on a boat cruise along the Okavango Delta region. This was a truly awesome day! The sun was shining brightly and reflecting nicely off the river. We got to see plenty of interesting birds too. The Okavango delta region is known to be an ideal location for bird watchers (I met an avid bird watcher from the U.K. who had recently lived in Libya). Some of the key sightings were the kingfisher, Great African Ibis, Red horn billed Quella (the most common bird across Africa), guinea fowl, Open billed stork, African fish eagle and egrets.  We also managed to see a number of animals from a distance such as giraffe, elephant, kudu and zebra.

marunga- traditional dugout canoe

Claire with a water lily necklace

At one point we got off the boat to walk in the Moremi Wildlife Reserve. Our guide pointed out some really cool things as we went through water over our knees and dry land. When elephants want to remove ticks from their bodies, they rub themselves up against trees (we saw some visible signs of this from the mud on the trees). Rex even broke open some sage for us to smell. On the way back we saw the traditional dugout wood canoe, used in Botswana called the “marunga.” Back in the boat we saw various huts, used by migrant workers to sleep. These workers utilized machetes to cut down a particular weed to make huts.Our intention was to eat lunch on the mainland. However, just as we were about to step out from the boat a baby crocodile scurried across in front of the boat. So we ended up enjoying tuna, potato and green salad on the boat. Rex showed us how to make a water lily necklace all to our amazement (it was intricately made by breaking off components to create the design and then tying each end together). Later on we saw a few hippos before finding a shallower area to swim in.

After the cruise our group enjoyed our final night in Botswana and also our spring break. It was a glorious time and the memories will continue to stay with me. What an awesome experience! 

Exploring Victoria Falls

Victoria falls

Obviously if you are to make your way to the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe you will also have to head over to check out the falls. One of the seven natural wonders of the world, the falls are a sight to see. Some tourists even label it as the greatest destination in all of Southern Africa. Unfortunately the falls costs U.S. $30 to see which restricts it to tourists or people with some privilege. It is understandable that opportunities to make money such as these are implemented, but at what cost? Should it cost to see a natural wonder? More importantly for people that live in the land but are unable to see it due to financial reasons, what value does Victoria Falls carry for them in their life?

elephant at the river bank

 Victoria Falls is very vast and impressive containing a line of many different falls. It is rather hard to comprehend the length of the many fall components not to mention the great magnitude of the water. We happened to be there right at the end of the wet season when the water was at its greatest velocity. The spray of the falls was so powerful that it was hard to get close to the edge at any of the different stations. It was so present that a member of our group, Katie had her good camera ruined from the water spray and had to dry out her passport later on. But others who were traveling on this program during the first semester experienced a much drier Victoria Falls with only a small stream. Like Raucana Falls in northern Namibia the amount of water varied dramatically between the two seasons.

Mark and I

Another tourist experience was a cruise on the Zambezi River (the river that carries the water of Victoria Falls and also separates both Zambia and Zimbabwe). We went out on the boat at around sunset and as it was a booze cruise, it contained an assortment of free alcohol. We managed to see a couple elephant on the river bank and some hippo opening their mouths. Earlier that day I spent some time with the locals from the town of Vic Falls.

After meeting the persistent street sellers I got talking to a guy named Mark. I spent a couple of hours in the afternoon buying a number of wooden and stone products from him and about six other sellers. Afterwards I talked to Mark and he invited me for a Victoria Falls morning tour. I was excited by this prospect!

Mark's house

At about 8:30 in the morning he swung by the Shoestring backpackers and we were off and away. He firstly took me to his old school, than to a clinic where I met his wife briefly and finally to his house. We talked for hours about politics, economics and the socio-cultural climate of Zimbabwe as well as contrasts between Zimbabwe, Australia and the U.S. It was helpful to hear a perspective of someone with so much knowledge of the area. He was a guide to his village, but also Zimbabwe, Africa and his way of life.

Mark showed me his house in a quite newly developed area (the house was made about 4 years ago). He was about to get electricity and doors but had plumbing and running water. Mark is only 22 and has been married for four years with a child on the way.

baobab tree

The next day he took me to the marketplace where I traded and talked for hours. The openness and directness of the people in Victoria Falls was so apparent. It was easy to get chatting to each seller and move between every stall. Mark also took me to the “Great Baobab tree” (which was quite easily the largest tree I have seen in my life. My time with Mark and friends such as Stanley were the genuine experiences that will be cherished for a lifetime. Yes, I saw Victoria Falls, some animals and went on a cruise. But it was my experiences with the people that were most paramount to my time in Zimbabwe.

I look back with great happiness towards my experience in Zimbabwe. Spring Break was a time for fun, but also for a deep reflection on humanity.  

A Wooden Elephant for a Shirt

The clothing industry in Zimbabwe is in dire straits. The local clothing industry has no way of keeping costs low and competing with outside business that it has been truly weakened at its core. With the globalization of the clothing industry, Zimbabwean manufacturers will become more and more obsolete, yet the prices may become more bearable for locals buying clothing. In the town of Victoria Falls it is easy to see this impact on the local economy.

Trading Spot: Close to a few Pumbas (warthog)

Every time I walked around the town I was hounded by locals wanting to trade for the clothes that I was wearing (“man I really like your shoes” or “your shirt is nice”). It was common to see the Zimbabweans wearing American and European clothing brands of items that were traded directly from tourists.

As it is so expensive for locals to buy clothes they are persistent in trading their hand crafted items for clothing. While they are determined to make the trade possible, I had never found anyone willing to trade clothing straight for items without money. As money is the medium of exchange that ensures that they have basic necessities (food) for their survival it is critical that it is supplementary in the trade.

It is most always a win-win situation for both parties. Through the trade the locals will gain greater value and so will you, which is only one of the benefits of such activity. The trading was a valuable experience, particularly through the sharing of ideas. It was a means of getting to know through genuine dialogue. I made some friends who I continued to meet throughout my time, including Mark who offered to take me on a tour of his village area outside of Victoria Falls. In my 3 days in Victoria Falls I managed to trade off my jeans, a couple of small shorts and some socks. I came away with much more than just material possessions; a hope of a new Zimbabwe that is economically sufficient.

Exchanging Currencies in Zimbabwe

It is common to have a local try to sell you a stack of Zimbabwean dollars that cannot be used anymore. It has become a souvenir and a rather interesting tourist item. Do you want to become a trillionaire?

Zimbabwe has an interesting economic history. In 2008 the Zimbabwean dollar became almost worthless as it was hit with the highest inflation rates in the history of the world. The attempts to reestablish the Zimbabwean dollar and to turn around the economy have so far failed.

Victoria Falls Market Place

While the Zimbabwean dollar was a high valued currency upon its inception in 1980, it was plagued by hyperinflation and had bank notes up to $100 trillion. Locals told me that it cost about $1-2 trillion to buy a loaf of bread at its most extreme. Any cash below the billion dollar notes became worthless and even million dollar notes weren’t utilized. In 1983 1 Zimbabwean dollar could be exchanged for 1 U.S. dollar but in July, 2008 it was 758 billion Zimbabwean dollars for 1 U.S. dollar (at one point during 2008 inflation was estimated at about 40-50 million percent). The government tried on three separate occasions to reestablish the Zimbabwean dollar in 2006, 2008 and 2009. Each attempt was unsuccessful and eventually lead to the elimination of the Zimbabwean dollar. The U.S. dollar became the main currency. But as I found out there are many different currencies that can be accepted in Zimbabwe, including the South African Rand, Botswanan Pula and U.S. dollar. It is common to pay for an item with one of these currencies and get change in another one, all part of one transaction.

While walking in the streets of Victoria Falls it is easy to see the devastating effects of the political and economic situation in Zimbabwe. As a place for tourism, it has been put into dire straits. Tourists have managed to see the falls from the Zambian side now more often than not, leaving a declining tourist industry in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. It has greatly impacted the way of life of the general population and made it hard for many to get by. The locals still have hope in a new Zimbabwe free of its vast political and economic problems. They are in waiting for a new era, one without Robert Mugabe and with transformative reconstruction. Hopefully the Zimbabwean dollar can be reinstated again when the economy is strong!

3 Countries in 1 day

Spring break began with a bang! 16 CGE travelers (11 in a kombi and 5 in a car) and 2 Namibians went from Northern Namibia to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The plan was to go directly in one trip, but it proved to be impossible due to the border closings. My group (the kombi travelers) made it to Kunene in the Caprivi Strip for the night (the north eastern part of Namibia). It was the first night of camping for all those who wished to do so.

The next day we traveled from Namibia, into Botswana and ended in Zimbabwe. It was a day full of borders and completing paper work (a similar form has to be filled out twice for each border crossing: before and after passing into the new country). As soon as we got into Botswana we started to see a multitude of elephants in a short space of time. One of the times we managed to stop to take pictures of a group of elephants crossing the road. It was a magnificent sight! Getting into and leaving Botswana was pretty easy. Zimbabwe was a different story. Our passports were requested and we had to wait about 40 minutes for checking. After hours of driving and various delays we reached our destination, Shoestring Backpackers in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

I felt elation walking into this tranquil village (the backpackers) where people were relaxing in the swimming pool, watching television or just enjoying the peaceful serenity of the shade. There was a bar, a restaurant and a range of small shops for people to buy trinkets or even get a massage done. People from all around the world stayed together in a peaceful, yet isolated community. After a walk in the town and a chance to meet some of the locals, I was a happy sleeping camper. 

Meet the Pres

Josephat Shangala and I

On Sunday, 13^th of March I headed into the town of Oniipa, northern Namibia for an unforgettable day. The sunrise was brilliant like any other day and the morning crispness present. I met Will at his host parent’s house and we were soon off in the back of a ute towards the bishops consecration service. A couple of others from the CGE group joined with us. An old friend of my parents, Josephat Shangala was to become one of the two newly elected bishops of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Namibia (ELCIN). He had spent some time at my Dad’s seminary, Trinity Lutheran back in the 80’s but is now a pastor with quite a reputation in Namibia.

We were part of the in-group as Claire’s host father was the General Secretary to all the pastors in the ELCIN. You could pretty much call us VIP as we drove through the area and escaped from the long lines of people walking through metal detectors. The place was set up with a small tent right at the front where the formalities of the service were to take place. Behind this was a large tent filled with people in seats. We managed to get a seat just outside of it. While we were in the shade at the start of the service, the sun changed positions during the proceedings to give us a nice burning.

There were more Lutheran pastors than I had ever seen in one place in my life. The pastors lined up in a massive line. The service was meant to start at 8 am, but the Namibian president wasn’t there yet. So we had to wait till 9:30 until he rocked up with all his dignitaries. While we didn’t stand up for the entrance of the bishops, we were meant to for the president. The service was mainly in the Oshivambo language, the dominant method of communication in northern Namibia. English was spoken here and there which provided me with some understanding. The service was composed of various rituals, many songs, but also speeches.

the main tent

The service lasted till 4:30 pm (8 hours of sitting) and was by far the longest church related event that I have ever been to. Church leaders from around the world spoke about the state of the church and the hope for the new bishops. These included at least 4 Finnish, 3 German, 1 Slovakian, 1 South African, 1 Botswanan, 1 Angolan, an ELCA representative, a representative from the Namibian Council of Churches, a LWF representative and a couple representatives from other denominations such as the Roman Catholic Church. It was interesting to see the various transnational church connections. The service ended with an address from the Namibian president in English followed by a short summary of the key points in Oshivambo.

Kristen, Claire, President Pohamba, Will and I

At the end of the service we got a chance to meet the Namibian president, Hifikepunye Pohamba. After talking with other church leaders and eating a wonderful dinner we speculated whether the man sitting down on the far table was indeed the president. After devising a scheme we got a U.S. Peace Core volunteer to take pictures as we would wait for an opportunity to approach. Soon enough we were talking directly to the president. He was happy to engage us and talked highly about U.S. foreign policy, the U.S. program for AIDS/HIV called PEPFAR and the amount of U.S. volunteers being of service in Namibia. We asked for a picture and were soon up and ready. Unfortunately, the presidential guards weren’t happy with the amount of time we were spending and tried to push us away. They continued to push down the camera and our friend, James had to plead to them for one picture. We got our snaps and were away. It’s not every day you get to meet the president, especially for about 5 minutes with a picture! After meeting the newly elect bishop, Shangala and one of the leaders of Namibia’s liberation struggle, Pastor Kameeta, we were soon off. It was quite a day to remember, with memories for a lifetime! 

Sheebeen Culture in Northern Namibia

Club Shandy Bar

The sheebeen culture is prominent to northern Namibia and our time in Oniipa suggests this. A sheebeen can simply be defined as an unlicensed drinking establishment. However, the meaning in the Namibian context is different in that most sheebeens are now legal, so they can essentially be considered bars.Sheebeens and other bars are scattered along the main street in Oniipa and play an important role in everyday life in the town. Some people sit outside of the bars talking and enjoying their time in a very casual atmosphere. Beers are cheap and locally brewed beers extremely cheap. Local beers are typically made from the sorghum plant, while some can be prepared from the mahangu grain.

The names of the sheebeens and bars have provided great amusement to our group and it is often a wonder as to how they came about. Some of our favorites are as follows: We Like Sheebeen, Lucky Special Sheebeen, Waka Dog Bar, Happy Bar, Mr LifeBar, Days of our Life Bar, Town Life Bar, Professor Bar, The Bar, Sun Set Bar, VIP Bar, Plan B Bar, Eden Bar House, Mad Dogs Bar, Cool Life Bar, Reality Bar, Ostrich Bar, New Vision Bar, Vuvuzela Bar, New York City Bar, Las Vegas Bar and Good Struggle Never Lose Bar.